I woke up feeling like I had been hit by a bus but much better than the night before and I felt better as the day progressed. We were in no rush to pack up as we only had about 100km to travel to Chogela Camp Site, about 25km outside Ruaha National Park. As Gray bent down to pick up a box, he coughed and oops, that was a mistake, off he waddled to the long drop.
25km from Kisolanza we came into the outskirts of Iringa, in order to get up to the main section of the town, we had to negotiate a steep hill which was tarred to first world standards with a pedestrian walk way and all. Just as we were marvelling at the road, the taxi in front of us started rolling backwards and it kept coming, when we realised that it was not going to stop, Gray swerved sharply out, luckily there were no oncoming cars. We landed up half suspended over a concrete block and half in the ditch below – stuck and blocking up the oncoming traffic with our car and trailer. The poor taxi driver was so upset. Before long the traffic had been stopped and 6 strong guys came to help lift the car out the ditch. The brakes clunked a bit but soon got back into their groove and we were on our way. No tow trucks, again just lots of good Samaritans willing to help.
Iringa came as a huge surprise. There are only buildings; lots are 2 or 3 stories high, housing shops and offices, no huts or make-shift shelters. It is clean and very orderly; a likeable town and worth a visit, if you just happen to be in the area. In the town we saw the first influences of the Muslim culture which is so prevalent in East Africa. There are also numerous churches of different denominations. We filled up with diesel, bought some coldrinks and a map of the park.
Along the first section of the potholed road to the Ruaha Park are many mud hut villages. Every 10km or so there is a big white church, complete with steeple and blue trimmings. According to the sign posts, these are Orthodox churches of different Parishes – they look like something one might see on the Greek hillsides and seems so out of context here in Africa. These villages became sparser as we travelled further along the road and we then saw the first Masai people on our travels.
We arrived at Chogela Camp and were met by Chogela, the owner; he is a really cool dude, with short dreadlocks. The camp is basic, clean and very well kept (and has hot water and a flusher). We are shaded by these huge Acacia trees and it is very pretty here but very hot (wish they had a pool).
After setting up camp, we headed up to the reserve. At the gate we had to fill in the regulation forms and pay US$90 for a 24 hour permit = around R650 for a couple of hours this afternoon and tomorrow morning (obviously we needed to be out by sunset). We travelled along the western section of the Ruaha River, it was fairly mountainous and rocky; we saw breeding herds of ele, with lots of young and 5 cheetah.
Returning to camp around 5:30, it was still 35 degrees. I made supper and we sat around the camp fire and chatted to the only other campers; 2 American students assisting with a study on educating the locals about the park, it’s benefits and the animals.
Ele in Ruaha
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