This morning we visited Shawa House, forgive my ramblings from here on, but having studied history, I find this place absolutely fascinating. This manor house is full of old family heirlooms, photographs and stories, told to us by Brad, whose grandfather worked for the original owner. Standing on the lawns in front of the house, you could forget you’re in Africa and imagine instead that you are at a 1920’s garden party.
Stewart Gore-Brown, a young British colonial officer, stumbled upon a lake that the local Bemba people called Shiwa Ng’ andu – ‘place of the royal crocodile’. He purchased 10 000 hectares from the local chief and began building his little piece of England in Africa. Shiwa House was constructed from materials made locally or transported on foot by porters. The house overlooks the lake, with abundant bird life and game. Around this grand house grew an estate, which included housing, schools, a post office and a hospital for his 2000 employees.
Obviously, the upkeep was expensive and Gore-Brown was also a very philanthropic man. His various money making schemes, such as perfume making from growing flowers, proved unsuccessful. He was financially assisted by his wealthy, Aunt Ethel, whom he was very close to. Gore-Brown insisted on discipline and his violent temper was legendary, so much so, he was given the nick-name Chipembere (black rhino). Unusual, for his time, he believed in African independence. He was knighted by George VI and was close friends with early nationalists, including Kenneth Kaunda. When he died in 1967, he was the first white man in Zambia to be given a full state funeral. We visited his grave site, on a hill overlooking the lake.
Through the 1980’s, his daughter Lorna and her husband continued to run the estate .They were murdered in 1992, it is assumed for political reasons. Shiwa House stood empty for several years and rapidly disintegrated. It has and is still in the process of being restored by Gore-Brown’s grandson, Charlie and his wife.
We went for a drive around the lake and saw some Kafue letchwe and played with a baby wildebeest, who is being hand reared.
Kapishya Lodge is run by Mark (another of Gore-Brown’s grandsons) and his wife, Mel. It is absolutely fascinating to chat to both men about their lives on the estate. We decided to eat dinner at the lodge, as curry was on the menu and we had not had a curry since leaving Jhb.
We had a stunning evening chatting to the staff and other guests (Nick and Sally and their friends have also since arrived here). The staff are; Tim (got fed up with living in England), Dave (a policeman, from Australia, who is on 8 months paid leave and arrived here for a night in January and is still here), Carin (from Ireland, who is doing a 3 months practical for her master’s degree in marketing) and Lulu (from Lusaka). A bottle of wine and too many whiskeys later (for Gray that is), we made our way back to our camp. We have to cross the springs to reach the camp site and it was just so inviting, so in we went, au natural, please don’t try and imagine the scene (sorry kids).
A Panda and a wildebeest in Africa
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