We arrived at the office just after 7:00 and I managed to get another 2 blog pages sent; in between eating breakfast in the restaurant and waiting for the network to send off. We left Kande at around 8:00 and shortly thereafter heard a grinding noise. It was one of the front brake pads – Gray had replaced all 4 brake pads before we left, so 8000km later they should still be going strong; either he is a shocking mechanic, or to give him the benefit of the doubt, the roads have been shocking.
Luckily the next 80km back to Mzuzu, were all uphill. We could only travel this road slowly as it was filled with Malawians, young and old, walking in both directions. When we were not dodging people, we were trying to pass trucks and container carriers ambling up the hill or alternately avoiding those barrelling down in the opposite direction. Every 10km for so there are branches, with their leaves, laid across the road every few metres, this is an indication to slow down, even further, as up ahead is either an overturned, a jack-knifed of a broken down truck.
In Mzuzu we headed into the first garage, no fuel or diesel was available and the little spares shop had no brake pads. The guy in the shop was suggesting either Lilongwe or Dar-es-Salaam; obviously travelling the long distances to either destination didn’t appeal to us. We headed further into town and came across a tyre shop, as Gray was entering the ‘compound’ area, some chap asked if he could help. After a couple of phone calls, he disappeared and returned 10 minutes later with Land Rover brake pads. Twenty minutes later the pads had been fitted, he had been paid his 17 000Mkw (including a handsome tip); as it turned out he didn’t even work for the tyre place. Within an hour, we were back on the road. We were not so lucky with fuel however; none of the garages had petrol or diesel. The problem with fuel in Malawi is that it is linked to their forex and as they are one of the poorest countries in Africa, they take turns in alternating between buying petrol and diesel, so usually one of the other is unavailable. We have 120L long range tanks and 40L in jerry cans, so we had enough for now and were not concerned.
After leaving Mzuzu we headed north towards Chitimba. The road follows the course of the North Rukuru River in a breathtaking descent down the Rift Valley Escarpment. There were a lot less pedestrians on this road but we still had to contend with jack-knifed horse and trailers, unable to negotiate the hair pin bends. We emerged from this glorious drive at Chiweta, on the northern shore of Lake Malawi. As far as tourism goes, this area is largely underdeveloped.
We left main road and headed down a sand track to Sangilo Sanctuary. As is standard in Malawi, once heading off the beaten track, you find; a soccer pitch, half grassed and angled to fit in with the lie of the land, a school, possibly a health centre and a few huts.
Sangilo is perched on a cliff, overlooking the lake, with its own private little cove of beach. We had a look at the rooms; clearly Panda thinks I am ready for my next lodge night. The funny thing is, the lodge rooms (at all the places in Zambia & Malawi) are very basic, with thin foam mattresses on the beds. At the end of the day, with our double mattresses, I am sleeping very comfortably in the roof top tent. So, appreciative as I was of the gesture, can you believe, I elected to camp in the one and only camp spot here.
Once camp was set up, we descended down the steps to the beach with raked sands, flower gardens in mokoros and thatched umbrellas. Behind this idealic setting is a beach pub, complete with sand floor and a little restaurant. We had a snack with our G & T’s (promise we are not turning into alcoholics but G & T’s really taste very special here).
Watching Gray, on the beach, looking over the massive expanse of water at the Rift Valley mountains of Tanzania on the opposite shore, it struck me – he looks just like Captain Haddock (from the Tin Tin Books), he has this beard and unruly hair and he is so relaxed and happy.
Back at the tent, we were concerned that the fridge had been on lettuce setting, so with steak and chicken left, we decided to braai both and have some for lunch tomorrow. Actually we gave up on lettuce, and started substituting with cabbage, for our salad making around Livingstone. Firstly, because we can’t find lettuce and secondly because cabbage lasts so much longer and is more resilient. After our feast, we went to bed, only to be woken up soon after with rain pouring down, so it was back out to fetch towels and chairs – possibly we should have slept in the lodge rooms.
Captain Haddock
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