Happy Birthday Megs, you are getting old cuz.
The wind howled during the night but we were warm and comfortable.
I had resolved not to let my neighbours bother me any further, that was until they were rude to Willem, the camp attendant, who was an absolute star. We packed up in record time, having no desire to spend any more time next the ‘wannabe Voortrekkers’.
I hope Kirsty and my Sandton friends are proud of me; during my shower this morning, I was more appreciative of the piping hot water, from the donkey boiler, than I was concerned of the spiders scurrying around the walls of the tiny dark cubicle.
We stopped at a local craft market near to the main road to buy a bracelet for Robs; she collects bracelets from each country she visits, I collect fridge magnets and Gray drinks their beers. In Namibia his beer of choice has been Tafel and Hansa Draught.
We then headed into Katima Mulilo, a bustling little town. We found the Boabab Bistro, the only restaurant in the town (I think). It had great food, great atmosphere and was very reasonable; perfect for brunch. There were a couple of locals crowded around an old T.V. and we realised they were watching the Royal Wedding (we had forgotten completely) – Robs and I were delighted. Gray was chomping at the bit to get going but we talked him into letting us stay until we had seen the dress.
We left Namushasha a day early and decided to head into Livingstone, in Zambia. We arrived at the border post at Wenela (a few kms outside Katima) at 12:30. Note must be made here that this is the first time we have travelled through Namibia without getting a puncture (Gray is very happy with his new BF Goodrich tyres). The Namibian border post was quick and efficient and we were out of the modern building in 10 minutes. Then we drove straight past the Zambian office at Shesheke – there was no signage and nothing indicating anything vaguely official. Once located, the building proved to be a dirty dump. We exchanged US $ for Zambian kwacha from some shady looking characters in a litter strewn yard and proceeded inside. There were 4 taxes and insurance to be paid, some in Kwacha, some in Rand and some in US$. The building with broken windows, filthy curtains and broken toilets proved luxury compared to our next stop. The next part of making ourselves official for entry took place in a caravan, Robs and I stood outside watching some guys play chess as there was no room for us, in what must rate as the most run down and filthiest caravan on the planet (complete with no floor and chicken crap). We then proceeded to another tin structure to pay road tax, returning to the original one to complete the paperwork. Gray eventually emerged after signing for and paying for heavens knows what but we were legal. As we were walking to the car, he started squirming around and found a cockroach under his shirt. After a debug, we were on our way. Beaurocracy and cleanliness aside, the Zambian officials were far friendlier than their very official Namibian counterparts.
We were stopped on numerous road blocks on our 200km journey into Livingstone, nobody checked any papers but like at the border post everyone was extremely friendly. We can see a big increase in population by the number of villages, cars and people.
As we entered Livingstone the heavens opened (the first rain in Livingstone for a month) and we get caught in an almighty hail storm. As we had left Namibia earlier than expected we had not booked anywhere, camping today was not an option. We had been given the names of a few places to try by people we had met along the way. The first 3 were fully booked (like in S.A. this is a long weekend in Zambia) and the cell network in the area crashed, preventing us from phoning around. Luckily we drove passed the Chrismar Hotel and managed to get the last room off a cancellation. O bliss, a soft bed, hot water and a restaurant. The staff fall over themselves to please you; this must be one of the happiest and friendliest cultures on earth. After dinner we went for a nightcap to the bar (sunken into a swimming pool, much to Robs delight) and met a lawyer and a guy from the Department of Corruption, they were from Lusaka on a conference. We had a very interesting evening chatting to them, with Gray trying the local Mosi beer.
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