Day 26: 10/05/2011 - Forest Inn (Mkushi) to Mayense Camp (Mutinondo Wilderness)

We woke early and had a good look at our plans for the next week and changed them completely. We had intended to head up north to Bangweulu Lake and Wetlands, in search of the rare and elusive Shoebill Stork. From there we were going to head up north to the southern parts of Lake Tanganyika. However, having looked at the distances involved and more important the roads we would be travelling on (it could take us 9 hours to travel 300km), we decided to head east.

Along the way I wrote a letter to Robs, e-mailed it to Al, via cell phone (at a point where we managed to get reception). She will print it, deliver it to the school, together with a letter for Jen, her daughter and it, along with all the other letters for the girls, will be delivered to Kamoka Bush School around Saturday. Isn’t technology amazing, how did Stanley, Speake and Livingstone cope?

I had read about a place in the Mutinondo Wilderness, about 300km from Forest Inn. What a find, this stunning area is littered with whaleback hills, called inselbergs, it looks like hulks of stone; in varying shades of black and purple, have been dumped in amidst the muombo forests. You half expect to see dinosaurs wondering around in the valley.

We stayed at Mayense campsite; set in the forest with all we needed. I was very happy, until I opened the door of a hut with a sign saying “Girls” and was greeted with a long drop. But hey, this one didn’t smell and there no flies, it also had a strategically placed viewing slot, so you could look into the bush while you had a wee – this was an eco loo with a view. Robs would have been seriously impressed, an eco camp, complete with recycling bins (a first this trip). The rest of Mayense Camp, a few chalets along with a bar and dining are built into the hillside and beautiful in their simplicity blend into the natural environment.

We arrived around lunch time, set up camp and went for a long walk into the forests. We soon came upon a mini waterfall that cascaded into a pond below, I was tempted to have a swim but got in ankle deep and chickened out, the water was freezing. We had expected to see lots of birds as there are 300 species reported to reside in the area but they must be on holiday.

The camp is owned by Lari and Mike, who are also on holiday in England. Jane, Lari’s sister (who is babysitting the camp and dogs) arrived in the camp as we were braaing chicken for dinner. She has lived in Zambia all her life (except for her schooling in S.A.). She is married to a farmer and has two sons, who will be studying in S.A. next year. Her sons get up at 3:45, cycle 8km along a farm road, in order to catch a bus to school. 

During our journey along the Great North, we are aware of the school children, some as young as 4 walking along this main road to school. It would be the equivalent of our Gr R’s at Saints walking to school along the William Nicol. No neurotic moms, in their 4x4’s driving their little ones virtually to the classroom door here.

                                                         Mayense Inselberg

                                                         Help with the packing

                                                         Eco loo with a view