Day 82: Calvinia to Tankwa Karoo National Park

We woke to a cold and overcast morning. After breakfast in the old synagogue we took a walk around town. They have the biggest post box situated at the entrance to the smallest botanical garden. It was rather bizarre. The rest of the town was neat and quaint with lots of B & B’s and guest houses. 

The first 10km or so was on tarred roads with the Roggeberg Mountains surrounding us, the tops were shrouded in clouds, like a giant white tablecloth.

We turned right onto a gravel road that led to Middelpos. The scenery was starkly beautiful and the sun had burned off the clouds, changing the mountains from a dark black to a lighter grey. Middelpos was a total non event, tiny, a few buildings erected in one of the most arid parts of our country.  We came across 2 horses and a person. Ga renamed it Middelpoes – the kids take after their father.

Shortly after entering the park we stopped to view the scenery, it was pretty chilly out. Our next stop, a short while later was to cheek the spectacular view from the top of the Gannaga Pass before descending it. 

This 6km pass is held in place by impressive stone walls, rising sharply along 700m of the Roggeveld escarpment. It was an exciting drive with lots of tight switchbacks. The pass was built during the Great Depression of the 1930’s and those who died during its construction are buried at the foot of the pass.

After our descent we drove along a gravel road with the Roggeberge on our left to the Roodewerf Offices. The office buildings were  the original old farm house and school, which boasted 2 teachers. In the early 1900’s this was the center of the district.

 After collecting our keys we drove 20 km to the Elandsberg Wilderness Camp. Along the way we saw springbok and ostriches. Our 2 bedroom cottage with open plan kitchen and living area and outdoor, enclosed braai area is rustic and comfortable. It is built from locally made unbaked clay and straw bricks and rock excavated on site.  The cottage evokes the spirit of a bygone era – one of simpler times.  There is no electricity and as the sun set we lit gas lamps and candles.  The one concession to modernity is a splash pool, which at this time of the year seemed out of place, but I’m sure is greatly welcomed by summer visitors.

During the afternoon a wind swept over the the earth, bringing with it ominous clouds and the temperature plummeted. It did however set the scene for the most spectacular sunset of pink hues among the grey clouds. This continued into the evening, where we braved the elements to keep Gray company as he braaied. We then retreated inside to warm up by the fireplace with its roaring wood fire.

  

During this time the wind had blown the clouds away. There are no lights to be found in this valley of the Roggeberg and with only the waxing crescent of the moon we were treated to the most spectacular skies full of stars. It has been many moons since we have been treated to this spectacular display of milkyways.  It was worth leaving the fireside and heading into the cold night to witness every so often.