Gray and I, two days previously had taken a short drive from Varschfontein to the park border where it links up with the R355, the route we were taking today. We had hoped to take a short cut out but the gate was securely padlocked so it was not going to happen.
Today we therefore had to retrace our steps back to the office, where we filled up fuel and left via the Ceres Entrance. From there we linked up with the R355 and passed the first vehicle we had seen in 4 days. The gravel R355 between Calvinia and Ceres is the longest stretch of road in South Africa without a town or fuel station.
They do however boast the Tankwa Padstal. We stopped in for breakfast. Driving in you know it’s going to be one of those strange, quaint, hippy places – there was a light blue old car sticking out the ground.
There was a restaurant, bar and general dealer shop as well as an interestingly decorated bathroom. It was a hive of activity, loud families with screeching kids, bikers arriving and our phones beeping with four days of messages and emails. I found myself decidedly irritated with sensory overload. I wanted to go back to peace.
The road into Ceres was long and flat with Karoo scrub and the Cederberg Mountains on the right.
Then like night and day the scenery changed as we drove over the Cederberg. The vegetation was green and even the air smelled different.
We drove through Ceres, a typical small Cape town. We tried to book into a few B & B’s but they were full. We then headed over Michells Pass into Tulbach. This area is really beautiful, lush farms and mountains. We passed a wind farm, the autocorrect kept changing this to wine farm and for once it was correct – we passed those too.
Our new destination for accommodation was The Royal Hotel in Riebeek Kasteel. We had stayed here years ago and had fond memories of the place.
I know we were only away from ‘civilization’ for 4 days but time did seem to slow down.
Riebeek-Kasteel is one of the oldest towns in South Africa, situated some 80km north east of Cape Town, about an hours drive. In 1661 Jan van Riebeek initiated an inland discovery expedition. They climbed Bothmanskloof Pass and found before them a fertile valley that stretched as far as the eye could see. The place was named Riebeek-Kasteel in honour of the Commander.
The town today has around 2700 residents and many visitors who, like us, are attracted by its picturesque surroundings, aesthetic beauty and rural atmosphere.
The Royal Hotel is a colonial landmark and one of the oldest in South Africa. The accommodation is true old world luxury. So now have electricity, wi fi, hot water at the turn of a tap and most importantly a blow dry.
The 150 year old bar hosts an impressive selection of gins, it appears Gareth will be systematically trying them all. From the bar we had went into the attached dining room for a delicious meal.
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