Day 87: Riebeek-Kasteel

We woke to a beautiful sunny day in the Swartland. Robs drove through from Stellenbosch and joined us after a hearty breakfast at the hotel. It was so awesome to see her.

Ga moaned that the NG Kerk bells, next to the hotel kept him awake all night. The bells chime every half hour.

We spent the morning pottering around the town. There are art galleries, cute shops, wineries and restaurants. We did a beer and cider tasting, Robs and I enjoyed the pomegranate cider, while the guys favoured the ‘Bat Piss’ brew.

We then went to the Olive Boutique for an olive tasting. We learned about different types of olives and the making of olive oil. 

Then it was a drive back to explore Tulbagh , stopping along the way to admire the view of Riebeek-Kasteel from the mountains.

Tulbagh is another quaint old town with a distinctly Cape Dutch feel about it. We pottered around the shops and visited a wine farm before returning via the less travelled gravel route, passing through Gouda (don’t blink or you will miss it) and lush cattle farms.

Ga clowning around

Back at the Royal Hotel, we enjoyed Gin and Tonics an the patio. This beautiful colonial veranda, with its high archways is reported to boast the longest stoep South of the Limpopo.

We had dinner at a wonderful Italian Restaurant before Robs set off back to Stellies.

Day 86: Tankwa Karoo National Park to Riebeek-Kasteel

Gray and I, two days previously had taken a short drive from Varschfontein to the park border where it links up with the R355, the route we were taking today. We had hoped to take a short cut out but the gate was securely padlocked so it was not going to happen.

Today we therefore had to retrace our steps back to the office, where we filled up fuel and left via the Ceres Entrance. From there we linked up with the R355 and passed the first vehicle we had seen in 4 days. The gravel R355 between Calvinia and Ceres is the longest stretch of road in South Africa without a town or fuel station. 

They do however boast the Tankwa Padstal. We stopped in for breakfast.  Driving in you know it’s going to be one of those strange, quaint, hippy places – there was a light blue old car sticking out the ground.

There was a restaurant, bar and general dealer shop as well as an interestingly decorated bathroom. It was a hive of activity, loud families with screeching kids, bikers arriving and our phones beeping with four days of messages and emails. I found myself decidedly irritated with sensory overload. I wanted to go back to peace.

The road into Ceres was long and flat with Karoo scrub and the Cederberg Mountains on the right. 

Then like night and day the scenery changed as we drove over the Cederberg. The vegetation was green and even the air smelled different.  

We drove through Ceres, a typical small Cape town. We tried to book into a few B & B’s but they were full. We then headed over Michells Pass into Tulbach. This area is really beautiful, lush farms and mountains. We passed a wind farm, the autocorrect kept changing this to wine farm and for once it was correct – we passed those too.

Our new destination for accommodation was The Royal Hotel in Riebeek Kasteel. We had stayed here years ago and had fond memories of the place.

I know we were only away from ‘civilization’ for 4 days but time did seem to slow down. 

Riebeek-Kasteel is one of the oldest towns in South Africa, situated some 80km north east of Cape Town, about an hours drive. In 1661 Jan van Riebeek initiated an inland discovery expedition. They climbed Bothmanskloof Pass and found before them a fertile valley that stretched as far as the eye could see. The place was named Riebeek-Kasteel in honour of the Commander.

The town today has around 2700 residents and many visitors who, like us, are attracted by its picturesque surroundings, aesthetic beauty and rural atmosphere.

The Royal Hotel is a colonial landmark and one of the oldest in South Africa. The accommodation is true old world luxury. So now  have electricity, wi fi, hot water at the turn of a tap and most importantly a blow dry.

The 150 year old bar hosts an impressive selection of gins, it appears Gareth will be systematically trying them all. From the bar we had went into the attached dining room for a delicious meal.

Day 85: Tankwa Karoo National Park

Gray woke at 6:30 and headed out into the cold and dark to get the donkey boiler started so we could have hot water for the day. He then brought me coffee in bed – got to love this man.

After hot showers and breakfast we set off for a day of driving and exploring. We started on the Leeuberg 4 x 4 trail. This was an unusual drive that took us along the ridge of the Leeuberge, up and down the hills. We would ascend steeply, perch on the top of the hillock, like a pimple, get out and check where the steep descent trail was. The views were mind blowing. Loved this drive.

Back on the flat Karoo landscape we headed back into the Sterretjiesberg area and did a tour of the natural springs that were depicted on the map. Most, like Varschfontein, had a farm house with the outhouses, some had windmills and farming paraphernalia and all had family graveyards nearby.  

Unlike Varschfontein, they were derelict and in ruins, the walls were crumbling and roofs had caved in. I hope Petrus and Gideonetta would be pleased to know their home was restored and people were enjoying staying there. I hope their children and grandchildren return from time to time to stay and visit their graveyards.

Along the drive we saw lots of gemsbok and springbok and a troop of huge baboons. We came across 2 bat eared foxes and then found another 4 running in the distance. The little tree stump next to the car turned out to be a Cape eagle owl chilling on the side of the road, posing for us.  What we have noticed is that the birds don’t fly very high here, they just skim above the ground. I guess they don’t have trees to fly into, or maybe they are scared of heights (hehe).

This afternoon a great wind blew in from the east, it was a hot wind and relentless. We opened the windows and the wind blowing through, heated the cold farmhouse. Gareth, the intrepid explorer, hiked to the top of one of the mountains to visit, what he thought, having scanned the area with binocs, was a gravesite. Windswept upon his return he reported it was just a pile of rocks.

Eventually the wind died down, leaving the sun, the brightest red ball, to set magnificently over the Karoo.

 Sipping red wine around the little kitchen table around candle light, Ga cooking over the open fire, the bright stars twinkling in the night sky – such peace is rare.

Tankwa Karoo is a place of unspoiled  Mother Nature, a place to breathe.

Day 84: Tankwa Karoo National Park

We took time over coffee this morning, enjoying the scenery, it’s one of those views you can’t get enough of. We then packed up as we were moving  cottages.

The drive to Varschfontein Cottage took us about an hour. A barren track led us past derelict outhouses and kraals as they littered the way to the old farm house. 

This 3 bedroom old place was renovated in 2005. Not sure what was done to it but certainly it did nothing to diminish the old charm of a proper farmhouse that must have been built a 100 years ago. It was like we had moved back in time. No electricity, a donkey boiler for hot water and a huge kitchen fireplace for warmth and cooking.

The front of the old house boasted a flat landscape with the Leeuberg mountains in the near distance. In front, to the left of the house were 4 giant palm trees and to the right was a copse of tall bulrushes. Both seemed out of place in this desert environment. Clearly they are watered by the natural spring at the house. 

An old windmill clunks as it brings the water to the surface. This water is clear and fresh, hence the name of that place, I guess, ‘Varschfontein’ (fresh fountain). There was an empty reservoir next to the windmill but someone had built a small water hole some 30m away.

Most Sandton housewives, upon arrival, would probably have got back in their Prado’s and headed for the nearest hotel. We felt a certain excitement about going back in time and roughing it like the old farming family must have done. I wish I knew more about the history of the house, but with no internet access this is not possible at this stage. In a way it is also fun, as the 3 of us have our imaginations running wild about the existence of the farmer that lived here. What we have put together from exploring the area and finding a grave site is that Petrus (1889 – 1967) and Gideonetta (1899 to 1975) Strauss must have lived here. This is only an assumption but Gareth, watching the sun set from a nearby hill said this was the perfect spot for the graves to be, as the suns final rays set there.

We didn’t go for an afternoon drive, there was far too much to explore here. We all wondered off in our own directions. Gareth up into the Leeuberg and returning with interesting rocks and fossils. Gray and I then spent time birding at the waterhole. From time to time a springbok came to drink and gemsbok grazed on the plains. Then we heard a hoot and upon investigation found a spotted eagle owl in the palm trees. It turned out there were two of them and at sunset we watched them fly off to hunt. As the sun set spectacularly over the Cedarberg thousands of Cape sparrows came to roost in the bulrushes, we couldn’t believe the noise they made.

Ga braaied dinner in the indoor hearth and we sat at the kitchen table and ate by candle light. After dinner the 3 of us played a word search game on my iPad (a kind of out of place activity). I guess the Strauss’s probably read the Bible.

We had closed the house up to keep the warmth from the fire in but it got so smoked up we had to open doors and windows to let the smoke (and warmth) out.  Guess we were not cut out to be farmers. Luckily there were warm blankets on the beds.

Day 83: Tankwa Karoo National Park

There are no curtains on the windows (we generally don’t shut curtains anyway), so we woke to the silhouette of the sun on the mountains and the flora coming alive. 

In the succulent Karoo Biome, the flora is rare and unique, being one of only 35 biodiversity hotspots on Earth and one of only two hotspots that are entirely arid. As a boy Gareth loved exploring, I glad to see as a man he has not lost his inquisitive nature and over the last two days has gone on long walks and shown a great fascination in the vegetation, even wondering what he could use in salads.

The fauna in the park includes mainly buck and small mammal species.  On today’s drive we saw gemsbok, eland, steenbok, hartebeest, baboons and springbok. We were also fortunate to see one of the genetically mutated brown springbok, the first time I have seen one in the wild. The sighting of the day must go to 3 bat eared foxes.

The park straddles the border of the Northern and Western Provinces with the Roggeveld escarpment to the east, Cederberg to the west and Klein Roggeberg Mountains to the  south. 

The Park is named after the Tankwa River that runs through it. The meaning of the word is unknown but is believed to be ‘turbid water’, ‘Place of the sun’ or ‘Thirst land’ – all suit the park just fine.

Today’s drive took us through a stark flat area, through Volmoersfontein, which is a camp site (if you consider camping here, ensure you are fully self sufficient). We passed Potkleiberg, a hill that is part part of the Sterretjiesberg, Biesjiesfontein and Prambergfontein – I love the names, that are so apt. 

Our destination was Oudebaaskraal Dam, built in 1969 by Judge Alwyn Burger and was the largest privately owned dam in South Africa, until it was taken over by the park in 2007. We were not sure what to expect, being the optimist, I expected some water, the guys teased me and said we were heading  for a dry river bed. I won and then some, the ‘big’ dam was a great surprise and as it turns out is the main water provider in this semi desert area. It was also home to an abundant bird life. We had a picnic lunch, identified as many birds as possible and Ga and I walked the dam wall.

Enjoying the scenery and a G & T back at the house, Ga and I thought it would be a good idea to watch the sunset from a view point. We had seen a sign near our cottage indicating such. We thought it would be a quick drive up the hill and Ga considered walking it and Gray considered staying at home. As it was, we all hopped in the car and omg, the new Landy was put through its paces,  this turned out to be a major 4 x 4 trail that took us, eventually, to the top of some mountain with the most spectacular view. You felt as if you were on top of the world, Roggeberge crescenting the west and the Cederberg to the east and a moonscape below, it was as if a giant meteorite and hit this area millions of years ago. Well worth the drive up, we now had to descend the rocky trail.

Another evening around the fire and braving the cold to nip out and enjoy the wonder of a trillion stars.

Day 82: Calvinia to Tankwa Karoo National Park

We woke to a cold and overcast morning. After breakfast in the old synagogue we took a walk around town. They have the biggest post box situated at the entrance to the smallest botanical garden. It was rather bizarre. The rest of the town was neat and quaint with lots of B & B’s and guest houses. 

The first 10km or so was on tarred roads with the Roggeberg Mountains surrounding us, the tops were shrouded in clouds, like a giant white tablecloth.

We turned right onto a gravel road that led to Middelpos. The scenery was starkly beautiful and the sun had burned off the clouds, changing the mountains from a dark black to a lighter grey. Middelpos was a total non event, tiny, a few buildings erected in one of the most arid parts of our country.  We came across 2 horses and a person. Ga renamed it Middelpoes – the kids take after their father.

Shortly after entering the park we stopped to view the scenery, it was pretty chilly out. Our next stop, a short while later was to cheek the spectacular view from the top of the Gannaga Pass before descending it. 

This 6km pass is held in place by impressive stone walls, rising sharply along 700m of the Roggeveld escarpment. It was an exciting drive with lots of tight switchbacks. The pass was built during the Great Depression of the 1930’s and those who died during its construction are buried at the foot of the pass.

After our descent we drove along a gravel road with the Roggeberge on our left to the Roodewerf Offices. The office buildings were  the original old farm house and school, which boasted 2 teachers. In the early 1900’s this was the center of the district.

 After collecting our keys we drove 20 km to the Elandsberg Wilderness Camp. Along the way we saw springbok and ostriches. Our 2 bedroom cottage with open plan kitchen and living area and outdoor, enclosed braai area is rustic and comfortable. It is built from locally made unbaked clay and straw bricks and rock excavated on site.  The cottage evokes the spirit of a bygone era – one of simpler times.  There is no electricity and as the sun set we lit gas lamps and candles.  The one concession to modernity is a splash pool, which at this time of the year seemed out of place, but I’m sure is greatly welcomed by summer visitors.

During the afternoon a wind swept over the the earth, bringing with it ominous clouds and the temperature plummeted. It did however set the scene for the most spectacular sunset of pink hues among the grey clouds. This continued into the evening, where we braved the elements to keep Gray company as he braaied. We then retreated inside to warm up by the fireplace with its roaring wood fire.

  

During this time the wind had blown the clouds away. There are no lights to be found in this valley of the Roggeberg and with only the waxing crescent of the moon we were treated to the most spectacular skies full of stars. It has been many moons since we have been treated to this spectacular display of milkyways.  It was worth leaving the fireside and heading into the cold night to witness every so often.