We left around 9 for the 280km trip to Aus. It amazes me how Namibia can get things right with their roads (SA needs to take a few tips). To date, except for the last stretch into Aus, we have travelled on dirt roads and encountered not one pothole. They are all smooth and well graded.
After miles of nothing we came across a farming area; palm trees, dates I guess, grape vines and fruit trees. Lowen River and the Naute Dam are in this area and his must be how the farming area is irrigated.
The turn off to Aus and Luderitz took us onto a long straight tarred road. We drove over Naiams Pass, it was a gentle ascent and descent through a few mountains. A welcome relief after the passes of the Richtersveld.
We then passed through sheep and cattle farms reminiscent of the Karroo.
We arrived at Klein Aus Vista at 1, having driven past the Aus, a one horse town, that has definitely grown in the past few years. I was feeling a little nostalgic as I reminisced over staying here 4 years ago. Robs, Gray and I spent 2 nights in a wonderful camp site. It was full moon we were awed as the rocky mountains surrounding us turned a dark blue under the light of the moon. I was a touch regretful that we were not camping, until we walked into our room. Panda you did it again. Although the furniture is old, they have modernized it beautifully – old and new working in unison. Best of all was the huge bathroom with a big ball and claw bath. They have paid great attention to detail, gardens of indigenous plants, veigies decorating the spare toilet rolls and gemsbok, including a white one, roaming the grounds.
We had a quick bite to eat at the restaurant overlooking the swimming pool, with a view of the surrounding desert area. After an hours chill time we set off for sun downers at Koichab watering hole. Usually sundowners at a water hole implies we are waiting for game to come to come down for their evening drink …. This evening we hoping that the wild horses of Garub would bless us with their presence.
We had never seen the horses that frequent the start of the Dune Namib – north west of Aus. Along the 20km drive to water hole, overseen by Dik Willem mountain (love the name), we saw these extraordinary animals, that have adapted to the extreme desert conditions, in the distance.
Sitting patiently at the water hole, after about ½ an hour, a horse loped down to drink. Not as exciting as leopard or a herd of ellies but thrilling none the less. A while later another two horses appeared out the desert, the closer to the water they came the quicker they moved. After drinking they ambled up to us, it was a touch disconcerting how tame they were but I think they were the exception. While being entertained by the horses a gemsbok came down to drink.
There are a few theories of where these 150 odd wild horses originated from. Some believe they were descendent of the German Schutztruppe. Another theory proposes their origins lie in the former stud of Baron Von Wolf’s farm. Recently research has revealed that the horses’ forebears were part of the South African cavalry which had set up camp in the Namib. Their horses fled into the desert panicked by shots fired from low flying German aircraft at the beginning of World War 1. My Grandfather fought in this area in WW1, I wonder what the slim chance is that it could have been one of his horses.
On our return we came across gemsbok and another horse on the side of the road. Another reason not to travel at night.
I cannot believe the number of people staying at Klein Aus Vista. The camp site, self catering units and lodge area are all full. The sizable restaurant was full for dinner – as far as we could tell, we were the only South Africans. There were lots of Germans, some Spanish, Italians and people from other European countries. The southern region of Namibia has become a popular tourist destination since independence and many of the farmers in the area have incorporated tourism as part of their livelihood.
I had a nice long soak in our bath before going to bed.
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